Member stories: Paul Merriman
My anticipation has been building in the lead up to getting the train down to Plymouth today. I’m making regular checks on the forecast though mindful it’s subject to change. If we leave Wednesday evening the Scilly crossing on Thursday doesn’t look great – F6 gusting F8! It’s getting better on Friday though so my view is Falmouth or Newlyn on Thursday and Scilly crossing on Friday. I fancy Helford River as I’ve not been there and it sounds idyllic. Passage plan prep feels in good shape but I still need to research the Brittany leg – one for the train journey.
One other challenge – we’ll be a crew of 3 sharing watches. This makes choosing the weather window wisely even more important.
To add to the portents a hailstorm hit home at 1040 this morning! My excitement is still building but I’m reminded that this sailing lark isn’t all light breezes and sun lotion!
Final portent – my train from Waterloo is cancelled just before I leave the house. After a few calls I manage to to book a train from Paddington. A smooth trip down though a short delay of 20 mins – enough to get a 25% refund! Nice views if changeable weather on the way.
I meet my crew mate, Neil, at the station and we share a taxi to QAB where we meet Martin and look over the magnificent Xc-42 Pure Latitude. We get a briefing on key features and safety points then discuss our route options. We opt for Helford the following morning at a reasonable time, then Scilly early the next day. We agree it’ll be a great opportunity to shake-down both the crew and the boat.
It is a gusty start and a tricky reverse out of the berth – our neighbour to port has a large davit off the stern, but Martin uses the retractable bow thruster to keep us in line before reversing out of QAB then heading out to sea.
At the harbour mouth we meet the first of a regular sight – a lobster pot buoy. “Pot Watch” is a regular pastime for the rest of the trip both sides of the Channel.
We’re on a starboard tack with plenty of wind to get us down to Helford. The coastline is dramatic. We make the Manacles in good time with the tide in our favour.
Anticipating strong gusts we put 2 reefs in. It’s an unusual “strop” system but we come up with a protocol that works well. We share helming duties and get a feel for the boat – she saìls well and fast. My 6kts planning assumption will need revision upwards!
As we approach Helford a squall hits and visibility drops right down. There’s a helicopter buzzing a ship in țhe bay. Looks exciting but PL feels solid and as the squall passes we sail into the mouth of the river and find a mooring buoy for the night then pump up the dingy and, using the quiet electric outboard, head for dinner. We wrap up fairly early though as we plan a 6am start to make the tide at Lizard Point.
The first night on board and I have the forward cabin so conscious I have the mooring buoy ahead. Around 1am I wake with a start – was that a bang? Are we hurtling down stream? I jump on deck but all is secure. Then I Iook up and pause. A moonless sky and the constellations are blazing down – thousands of pin prick stars reflect off the river – I’m adrift in the Universe.
I go back to sleep with my head buzzing. Scilly awaits!
The river is like glass as we motor out at 6am. Bacon rolls for breakfast prepared underway. Pot Watch keeps us busy then we put the sails up and set course. Another starboard tack all the way and as we leave the mainland the rollers start to come in. We watch other boats on AIS including two friends of Neil’s who are leaving Falmouth after us and heading the same way.
Suddenly we see a flash in the water and a small dolphin breaks the waves. Another joins it and soon we have a whole pod following the boat, weaving around and under the bow. They stay with us for a while then leave as quietly as they appeared.
Our arrival into Scilly delivers on its promise. Low islands, wide beaches and rocky outcrops seemingly without a break. We find the gap and approach St Mary’s Pool from the North navigating down the shallow channel. Not many sailors get here anď we’ve found a great weather window. Luck or skill? We like to think a bit of both!
We radio in then take a mooring buoy to starboard of the Lifeboat which is also on a buoy. Lots of lines off it but we get secure. As we’re enjoying a tea below we get a knock on the window – can we move as the Lifeboat wants to take this mooring. Finally we settle just behind. The Lifeboat manoeuvres in to our old spot – engines like a jet taking off. I hope they don’t get a shout in the early hours.
It’s getting late so we head ashore in the dinghy in short chop and a decent breeze. We spend the evening watching the local Gig racing and then a cosy meal in the Atlantic.
My first overnight passage across the Channel and I couldn’t have asked for a better one or better company.
We leave St Mary’s late afternoon as planned and head south with a good 17/18 kts on our starboard quarter. This means concentration is needed on helming to avoid gybing as we roll up and down the swell. We have chicken curry to fortify us around 8pm then start a 3 person watch pattern at 9pm – 2 on 1 off so on for 6 out of 9 hrs. I’m first off so have the 0000-0600 watch – deep in the shipping and fishing areas. The fishing boats switch on AIS as we approach and appear suddenly. The large cargo ships are more visible but CPA is tricky to use as our heading keeps changing in the swell. As light comes up around 0430 we start to see the lighthouse off Ouissant and confirm we are further west than desired – also a bit late on plan to make Chanal du Four but some motoring gets us back on track (whilst I’m unconscious below).
We come through Chanal de Helle safely and enter Brest after lunch. A straightforward visitor berth near the sea wall.
A fun passage through the Raz de Sein. We’ve carefully calculated arrival time at Raz to minimise the tidal chaos – descriptions of a washing machine of tides is a bit alarming particularly as the wind and swell is up. On calling Audierne to check for a berth that night they tell us our planned arrival time of 2100 is too late – the tide in the river will be ebbing dangerously. 2000 or even 1830 will be better.
We head out and decide to take a look at conditions when we arrive (mostly sail but some motoring to keep to time) and on the way confirm a safe anchorage on the North side so we could turn back if required. In the end the sea state is fine – swell and wind are with the tide so there was a knot of tide against us in places but fairly flat (apart from swell). The changes in sea state as we go round are eerie though. We agree it would be no fun at the wrong point of tide.
We make Audierne for 1900 and navigate in safely. It’s good to get in with the light as well as it’s not easy to find our way in over the bar.
Dinner is an excellent steak place behind the marina. And a good bottle of red as well.
If we thought arriving at Audierne was tricky that is nothing to the exit. The very helpful marina manager has advised we should leave before 0900 so after coffee and some pastry purchases we are away around 0800.
On our way out we are met by the lifeboat and rib helping another sailing yacht in – had they been outside the breakwater all night? The crew look tired.
Further down and we come to a dredger in the middle of the narrow channel scooping out sand. We realised why as we get to the entrance and find Atlantic rollers breaking at the entrance. Some careful observation of the transit behind and dodging of the wreck to the south, then we are on our way.
This is one of the hardest passages weather/ point-of-sail wise but great fun climbing the swell and surfing down the other side. The sky is overcast but forecast to clear, which it does as we approached Concarneau.
In some ways it feels like the best of the trip is now behind us but we are still keen to get some sun and holiday sailing on the final legs.
Today the wind is forecast to be down to a gentle F3-4 and the sun is coming out after the mist so we hit the fish market in the morning to buy fresh (kicking!) prawns for lunch.
Luckily Martin has packed two spinnakers so we get the Asymmetric up to boost our SOG. As we pass Groix, Martin cooks the prawns with garlic and we find a bottle of white in the cupboard to wash them down. We reflected on the contrast with the last few legs.
As we approach Port Haliguen the navigation gets interesting – weaving between cardinals and rocks and breaking waves on all sides – but the sunny weather make it all seem fairly easy compared to earlier challenges.
Port Haliguen turns out to be an amazing stop – over the sill into a spot 150m from the bar/restaurant. We’ll need to leave before 11 the following day but plenty of time for washing and packing in anticipation of La Trinite tomorrow.
Dinner is oysters followed by various fish dishes delivered in impressive copper pans. Back at the boat we toast the trip with a shot of Jameson’s. A great last night on board.
A final sail to La Trinite beating into a F3 with sun glittering on a flat sea and plenty of other boats buzzing around the bay.
Before we head there however, a short stop to let Neil snorkel down to check for weed on the rudder and prop – trying to pinpoint the slight wobble we’d noticed in previous days. Handfuls of weed are removed – but the wobble remains.
Entry into La Trinite is satisfying if a little wistful.
A 373nm trip has been completed. Every leg was unique and special. A lot was learned, and memories made for a lifetime.
